We emerged bleary-eyed onto the train platform at Bourg Saint Maurice to see snow-covered mountains around us. The sun was peeking over the jagged peaks and the crisp mountain air was doing a better job than my train-bought coffee of waking me up.
My eight-year-old son and I had taken the overnight ski train from London and had arrived in the Tarentaise Valley just in time for breakfast and, potentially, to be among the first skiers on the slopes of the Paradiski area.
Our plan for the next few days was to discover everything there is to know about planning a family ski holiday to Les Arcs, a purpose-built resort in the French Alps that has long been a favourite with skiers for its snow sure ski slopes, its family-friendly accommodation and the huge number of ski runs with plenty to suit both beginner and advanced skiers.
With that plan in place, we grabbed our bags and took the short funicular ride up the mountain to our base, Arc 1600.
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Planning a family ski holiday to Les Arcs
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Les Arcs has been wooing skiers ever since the first resort, Arc 1600, was built in the late 1960s and it remains one of the best ski resorts in France for families.
The purpose-built ski-in / ski-out resort, in the Savoie region of France was designed by trailblazing French architect Charlotte Perriand whose-stand out creations were revolutionary; free from cars and with jagged architecture and apartment blocks that blend into the local landscape her designs were based on the notion that everyone could immerse themselves in nature.
Arc 1600 was the first resort to be created in 1968 followed by Arc 1800 in 1974, Arc 2000 in 1979 and Arc 1950 in 2003. Every time a new resort was developed accompanying ski lifts were constructed so that the whole piste area was perfectly connected.
Today, the Les Arcs ski area boasts 200 km of pistes and, when combined with neighbouring Peisey-Vallandry and La Plagne, the entire Paradiski area has 425 km of slopes, one of the biggest ski areas in the world.
The resorts of Les Arcs
Les Arcs ski resort as a whole is a great choice for families and has been recognised by Ski France and awarded their Family Plus Mountain label.
However, the four Les Arcs villages are all very different. They share similarities, of course, the Ecole du Ski Français (ESF) is present in all four bases, offering ski lessons with English speaking instructors. Other ski schools include Evolution 2. Each village also has restaurants, bars, ski hire shops, a supermarket and a tourist office.
But, like all siblings, the different villages each have their own identity and character and which one you choose for your family holiday will depend on the needs and interests of your whole family.
Arc 1600
This is the original resort in Les Arcs. It’s small, more traditional and quiet, and ideal for families with small children. There’s a great family hotel here, La Cachette, and a large Club Med that opened in 2018. We based ourselves in Arc 1600 and it was a great resort for us.
Arc 1800
The main resort of Les Arcs, Arc 1800 is well-suited to families with kids of all ages. It’s a popular choice for families with older children owing to apres-ski activities such as the bowling alley, climbing wall, luge toboggan run and skating rink, as well as the crepe stalls and shops.
Teens will enjoy the apres-ski scene with a choice of bars and many with live music. For younger children it’s also a good choice thanks to the dedicated ski are with magic carpet lifts.
Arc 1950
Although Arc 1950 is a purpose-built resort, it was not one of Charlotte Perriand’s projects and so looks different to the other villages. Arc 1950 was designed to resemble a traditional Savoyard village and, according to some, is more charming than the other three resorts.
It’s compact, pedestrianised and is full of facilities including swimming pools, kids’ corner, and dedicated family activities. It sits on a plateau just below its neighbour Arc 2000 (the two resorts are linked by a short cable car ride) and offers direct access to the ski slops. Arc 1950 is also a great destination during the summer months.
Arc 2000
Located in a wide snowy bowl at 2,100m, Arc 2000 is the highest village of Les Arcs and offers high-altitude skiing from the moment you leave your apartment.
It’s home to famous speed skiing course used in the 1992 Olympics – the resort’s zipline now whizzes across it – and the Olympic flame still stands proudly at the heart of the resort.
Accommodation here is mostly large self-catering accommodation blocks with a sprinkling of catered chalets. For beginner skiers, the well-placed St Jacques chairlift runs up to some excellent blue runs.
Arc 1600
We stayed in Arc 1600 and if you are on a family ski holiday with young kids then this is a great option.
Where to stay in Arc 1600
It’s small, quiet and has a wonderful family-friendly hotel, La Cachette. The hotel was recently renovated and reopened in December 2022 as a stylish four star hotel offering plenty of family accommodation. The 88 light-filled rooms either overlook the slopes or enjoy panoramic views over the Haute-Tarentaise and the Mont Blanc massif.
They have a range of family rooms including a Family Terrace Suite that sleeps five and comes with – as the name suggests – an enormous terrace. The hotel can also provide cots and bottle warmers, and even organise babysitting.
There’s a lovely spa area with outdoor hot tub and sauna, the restaurant is cosy and convivial, and there are a range of board games to play in the lounge area.
La Cachette also have their own ski hire shop which doesn’t have a huge stock of ski equipment but has enough to cater to its hotel guests. There’s also easy access to the slopes (which means less ski-carrying – and moaning – for recalcitrant kids!)
The other option in Arc 1600 is Club Med, which opened their mammoth resort, Les Arcs Panorama, in December 2018. It sits on the edge of the resort, overlooking the village and has everything you could possibly need for an easy family ski holiday.
Where to eat in Arc 1600
La Cachette has a fantastic restaurant but if you feel like a meal out then there are a handful of options. A small creperie sits opposite the hotel’s main entrance and is the perfect place for a chocolate crepe after a day of skiing.
For lunch we enjoyed lunch on the terrace of LaBuche one day and at the excellent Le Sanglier Qui Fume another day. For dinner, the small restaurant opposite La Cachette, Le Geneux, is well worth a try. Their speciality is steak cooked on a hot stone.
Of course, the rest of Les Arcs ski domain is sprinkled with myriad restaurants and bars including a lively Folie Douce over at Arc 1800, perfect if you are skiing with teens.
Things to do in Les Arcs
Of course the main activity here is skiing but there are plenty of other activities to enjoy in the Les Arcs ski domain as well including the ‘snake gliss’ (a fun sledging train where you link with other tobogganers), yoga, cross-country skiing, ski touring, snowshoeing, dog sledding and ski joëring.
There is also an indoor swimming pool at Arc 1800 and the opportunity to try paragliding. You can see a full list of activities offered in Les Arcs here.
We tried the following fun activities:
Skiing in Les Arcs
We spent three days skiing in the Les Arcs ski domain and quickly fell in love with the variety of slopes and spectacular views. After breakfast every morning, Sam and I would meet our ESF instructors and head out for the morning to explore the vast ski area, meeting again for lunch.
While Sam cruised the blue and green runs, I headed out to see what this part of the Paradiski ski area had to offer intermediate and expert skiers.
The answer is that Les Arcs has something to offer every kind of skier.
Admittedly, if it’s your first time ever on skis then Arc 1600 can be a little challenging as there are not a huge number of green runs to try. Each of the Les Arcs’ ski area does have its own nursery slopes.
If you are a beginner then consider staying at Arc 2000 or heading straight there in the morning. The highest village in Les Arcs is surrounded by gentle intermediate runs and, thanks to the higher altitude, it will have the best snow too.
If you’re confident on blue runs, however, then this is the resort for you as there’s a category blue run leading off from almost every chair lift. This means that even learner skiers can enjoy the whole ski domain and Sam and I spent our afternoons exploring the runs by ourselves.
One of the most famous runs in Les Arcs starts from the Aiguille Rouge glacier, the highest point in the Les Arcs-Peisey-Vallandry area at 3,226 metres. Here starts the black-then-red-run of the same name which runs down to the village of Villaroger at 1,200m. Altogether the run measures 7km long making it one of the longest runs in Europe.
Drop off the back of Aiguille Rouge and you’ll be rewarded with the open bowls of the Reserve Naturelle des Hauts de Villaroger. This is some serious off-piste skiing and should only be attempted if a) you know what you’re doing and b) you are with a guide who knows what they are doing!
There are some challenging and fun mogul pistes (I’m a big fan of moguls so always delight when I get to ski the bumps) and lots of long, swooping runs like La Cachette, which is a fast and fun red run.
Ski Passes for Les Arcs
For the 2023 / 2024 season, a six-day lift pass for the Les Arcs / Peisey-Vallandry ski area costs €330/adult €264/child (up to 12 years old). A six-day ski pass, the ‘Essential Pass’, for Paradiski costs €369 per adult or €296 per child. The Essential Pass gives you access to 13 Express lift lines and discounts on activities including the zip line, first tracks, luges and swimming pool.
From Les Arcs it’s easy to ski over to the Peisey-Vallandry area but to access La Plagne you will need to hitch a ride on the Vanoise Express cable car. This double-decker cable car officially opened in December 2003.
Make sure to download the YUGE app, which covers the entire Paradiski area. As well as sharing information on the weather, a piste map and what runs are open, it collects photos of you from various spots across the domain such as the zip line.
Snow Parks in Les Arcs
There are three snow parks in Les Arcs including the Mille 8 (a sledging zone and freestyle ski / snowboard area), a rail park in Peisey-Vallandry and the Apocalypse Snowpark where we spent most of our afternoons.
The Apocalypse Snowpark has small, medium and large kickers and jumps and is just as fun for a fearless 8-year-old as it is an experienced freestyler (it also works whether you are a boarder or a skier).
Aiguille Rouge Zip Line
This exhilarating zip-line whips adrenaline junkies over the downhill slope used for the Flying Kilometre during the 1992 Albertville Olympics.
The 1.8km-long zip line can be tackled in a normal seated position or head first, and can reach up to 130 km/h (if flying head first then you can’t wear ski boots and will need to bring a change of shoes with you). It’s open to anyone aged 10 and over.
Luge 1800
Fun for the whole family is the Luge 1800, a twisting, turning sledge run that starts at Arc 1800 and finishes through an illuminated rainbow tunnel.
The Aiguille Rouge Illuminated Murals
The Varet telecabine garage at the top of the Aiguille Rouge has been transformed into an indoor son et lumieres show themed around the seasons. It’s worth stopping in if you are here but it does incur an additional fee when really it should be included in the lift passes.
Igloo Village
Similar to the Ice Hotels in places such as Quebec in Canada and Finland, the Igloo Village in Les Arcs invites visitors into a world made of snow. The village features intricate snow carvings and the chance to stay overnight on a bed of ice. If that sounds a little too chilly then opt for an evening fondue dinner in the ice cave instead.
The Museum of Mountain Animals in Peisey-Vallandry
The excellent Museum of Mountain Animals in Peisey-Vallandry sits at the top of the Vallandry Telecabine, next to the beginner area. The eco museum and exhibition area opened in December 2022 and is dedicated to showcasing the flora and fauna of the region as well as the local history.
Display cases on the ground floor highlight local historical items such as a pair of wooden skis or an antique metal milk can. A traditional Savoyard costume is also on display.
Upstairs is dedicated to local fauna with a wide array of taxidermy animals that the museum inherited from a private collector. There are some fun interactive elements too that allow young children to learn more about the animals that call this mountains home.
It’s easy to forget when cruising down perfectly groomed slopes that Peisey-Vallandary started life as a small mountain village where locals were either farmers or miners. This museum does a wonderful job of highlighting the region’s rich history.
Take a Reindeer Sleigh Ride
Peisey-Vallandry is one of only three places in France where you can see reindeer. Catch a sleigh ride with Francois and his reindeer, Rudolph, for a unique apres-ski activity.
Francois knows everything there is to know about reindeers and will regale you with tales of what they eat, what they drink, how often they like to sleep and more. He’s particularly animated when it comes to predators, in particular the wolverine. While not present in the mountains of the Paradiski area, in Sweden wolverines live predominantly on reindeer.
It’s a highly enjoyable and entertaining afternoon out!
How to get to Les Arcs
Les Arcs is incredibly easy to access.
Les Arcs by Plane
Geneva is the largest nearby airport and is 2.45 hours away. Lyon and Grenoble are marginally closer, just 2.30 hours by car. Chambery is closer but is a small airport with fewer flight options.
Les Arcs by Train
Train is the easiest way to reach Les Arcs; from Bourg Saint Maurice it’s a quick seven-minute funicular ride up to Arc 1600.
The only complicating factor are the seemingly ever-changing ski train options from London. Take a look at Snow Carbon for more details.
Les Arcs by Car
Driving to Bourg St Maurice is straightforward, it’s only the final 17km of windy mountain roads leading into Les Arcs that might be a bit challenging. Remember to fit winter tyres or have snow chains with you and be aware that the mountain road gets very busy during peak times, particularly over school holidays.
