Sandwiched between the extensive, purpose-built resorts of La Plagne and Les Arcs at the entrance of the Vanoise National Park in the French Alps is the charming resort of Peisey-Vallandry, one of the best family ski resorts in France.
This small ski area is one of the oldest resorts in France – skiers were carving tracks here 20 years before Les Arcs was even constructed. It’s small, with just 60-odd kilometres of pistes, but with easy access to Les Arcs and the Paradiski area it offers skiers the best of all worlds.
Plus, the area has so much more to do then simply bash the pistes. This region was a farming and mining community long before anyone decided to try and tackle the snowy slopes with two planks of wood attached to their boots.
As such, there’s a sense of history and tradition here that you won’t find in Les Arcs or La Plagne and this is reflected in the many activities on offer from reindeer rides and mountain museums to family-run farm visits.
If you are planning a ski holiday to the Paradiski area then here are all the fun things to do in Les Arcs Peisey Vallandry.
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About Peisey Vallandry
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The Peisey-Vallandry area (it’s sometimes also called Peisey Nancroix) is made up of five main villages. The largest two are the purpose-built ski resorts of Plan Peisey and Vallandry (the latter is marginally bigger). These are both stationed at around 1600m, where the Vanoise Express Cable Car runs between the ‘Les Arcs side’ and La Plagne.
Despite being purpose-built, however, both resorts retain the look and feel of a more traditional mountain village with low rise accommodation built using local stone, slate and timbers.
Below these two resorts sits two other small settlements known collectively as Peisey-Nancroix.
Traditional Peisey village, complete with a Baroque church, sits at 1350m and is linked to Plan Peisey by the characterful stand-up bucket lift known as the ‘lobster pots’ (in French it’s called La Lonzagne). Below Peisey is the village of Nancroix at 1100m, which is linked to the other settlements by bus. The fifth village, Landry, sits at the foot of the valley and is also not linked by a lift.
Altogether the Peisey-Vallandry ski area has 60 km of pistes. However, what it might lack in size it more than makes up for in charm and, when combined with Les Arcs ski resort, offers skiers 200km of ski runs. If you catch the Vanoise Express Cable Car over to La Plagne then, as part of the Paradiski ski area, skiers have 425km of ski slopes to play on.
The villages of Plan Peisey and Vallandry have all the facilities you need on a ski holiday including ski schools, ski hire, small shops, a small supermarket, restaurants, cafes, and bars. The tourist office is located almost equidistance between the two villages.
Where to stay in Peisey-Vallandry
We stayed delightful Maison Caramel, a traditional Savoie home that has been transformed into a B&B by owners Kerry and Serge.
With five bedrooms, a cosy lounge, a large sun terrace, and a hot tub, this is a really comfortable place to stay. It’s based in the small village of Landry, so it doesn’t have the convenience of a ski-in / ski-out hotel or apartment but it’s just a quick drive up the mountain roads to reach the lift.
Accommodation is offered on Bed and Breakfast or Half Board (breakfast and dinner) with Serge cooking up delicious meals using local produce. We had dinner here and I can highly recommend option for the Half Board option.
Other options in the Peisey-Vallandry area include the Peisey-Vallandry Club Med that comes with all kinds of facilities and amenities for the whole family including an indoor swimming pool, an outdoor pool, kids’ club, ski school, and more.
You can see more ideas on where to stay in Peisey-Vallandry here.
Things to do in Les Arcs Peisey Vallandry
While downhill skiing is the main activity in Peisey-Vallandry during the winter season the area is just a well known for its cross-country skiing facilities. When not on skis, there is plenty to keep the whole family busy. The following are some of the most popular things to do in Les Arcs Peisey Vallandry.
Skiing
Peisey-Vallandry’s slopes are west facing meaning plenty of sunshine (although this can affect snow cover at lower altitudes). When the clouds roll in it’s a particularly popular place to ski thanks to its wooded areas providing visibility when the slopes in Les Arcs are blanketed in clouds.
You can access the ski resort of Les Arcs either by ski lift from Plan Peisey or Vallandry or on free shuttle buses (navettes) that ply the roads. The Les Arcs ski area is so close that you can’t actually tell when you are skiing from one domain into the other. Head off to top of the Aiguille Rouge, the highest point in the Les Arcs ski domain for some fantastic ski runs and panoramic views.
And of course the ski domain of La Plagne is within easy reach; a quick cable car ride across the valley of Peisey-Nancroix brings you to La Plagne ski domain.
Within Peisey-Vallandry there are wide, open slopes to suit all levels as well as some off-piste options and the chance to ski through the trees.
In 2022 a new beginner area opened at the top of the Vallandry Telecabine. At an altitude of 2,200m, this snow-sure area is a great place for young children to gain confidence on the slopes with magic carpets and small obstacles to manoeuvre around. Parents and grandparents can watch their progress from the large terrace overlooking the learner grounds.
Nearby is the themed Foret des Pitchouns with 15 playful units and obstacles is a fun run with young children.
Cross-Country Skiing
The Peisey-Vallandry area is well-known among Nordic ski enthusiasts. Located in the Peisey-Nancroix ski area, the Nordic Centre offers lessons in both skating and classic cross country skiing with ESF instructors.
If you’re already comfortable on skinny skis (not a technical term!) then you can set off and explore the 43km of cross-country ski tracks in the beautiful Vanoise National Park. Biathlon is also offered.
Ice Climbing
We did not get to try ice climbing during our time in Peisey-Vallandry but I’m tempted for my next visit. This adrenalin sport takes place in a corner of the Tarentaise valley where the sun doesn’t reach ensuring optimum climbing conditions. Led by a trained mountain guide you’ll be introduced to a world of frozen stalactites and frost sculptures and learn how to climb them.
The Museum of Mountain Animals
It is well worth visiting the excellent Museum of Mountain Animals. Located at the top of the Vallandry Telecabine, the eco museum and exhibition area opened in December 2022 and is dedicated to showcasing the flora, fauna and history of the Peisey-Vallandry area, as well as a platform for highlighting local artists and craftsmen.
The ground floor features display cases with historical items from the local region including an old pair of wooden skis, an ancient metal milk can and and a traditional Savoyard costume. One of my favourite items in the museum is the vending machine selling local products including saucisson and cheese.
Upstairs is dedicated to local wildlife and the glass display cases house a number of taxidermy animals that the museum inherited from a private collector. There are some fun interactive elements too that allow young children to learn more about the animals that call this mountains home.
Another museum that highlights the region’s past is the Palais de la Mine, the Mining Museum, that charts the history of sliver-lead mining in the area.
Farm Visit to La Chenarie
This area I still very much a farming community and you can see one at work with a guided visit to the family run La Chenarie. The farm is home to 170 diary cows, including 150 of the Tarentaise breed, and produce Beaufort year-round along with tomme and raclette.
Reindeer Rides
One of the highlights of our time in Peisey-Vallandry was the afternoon we spent with Francois the reindeer herder. Local man Francois has been looking after reindeer for the last 14 years, offering rides to locals and visitors alike (as well as photo shoots for weddings and birthday walks!).
He currently owns two reindeer and we were lucky enough to spend some time with 11-year-old Rudolph. Francois leads visitors in a reindeer-drawn sleigh along a track near the cross-country ski area and regales you with tales along the way.
This is one of only three places in France where you can see reindeer and it’s a highly informative – and entertaining – afternoon!
We learned everything there is know about reindeer from what they like to eat and drink to how long they sleep for and their natural predators – Francois became particularly animated when telling us about wolverines who live predominantly on reindeer in their native Sweden!
Other possible animal encounters include horse sleigh rides, dog sledding and skijoring where you can pulled along by a horse while wearing skis!
Lunch at La Fragola do Neve
There are some tasty restaurants in the Paradiski area but one of the best has to be La Fragola do Neve. This restaurant opened in 2022 and has quickly become a popular spot for its homestyle Italian cooking inspired by Chef Paolo Sola’s native Piedmont.
From cold cuts and focaccia to freshly made pasta and the restaurants very own take on traditional fondue, it’s a fantastic spot for lunch. Make sure, however, to leave room for the desserts that are both creative and delicious.
Luge 1800
Fun for the whole family is the Luge 1800, a twisting, turning sledge run that starts at Arc 1800 and finishes through an illuminated rainbow tunnel.
Igloo Village
Let it go like Elsa in Frozen with a visit to the Igloo Village in Les Arcs. While not quite a Disney ice palace, the village is nevertheless impressive, constructed entirely from snow and ice and featuring delicately cared snow sculptures and reliefs.
Similar to the Ice Hotels in places such as Quebec in Canada and Finland, you can stay overnight in the Igloo Village in Les Arcs, sleeping on a bed of ice. Or, you could just go for a visit! The Igloo Village also offers fondue dinners.
Aiguille Rouge Zip Line
Fun for anyone aged 10 and above is the zip-line in Les Arcs that speeds daredevils over the downhill slope used for the Flying Kilometre during the 1992 Albertville Olympics. Measuring 1.8km-long, the zip line can reach speeds of up to 130 km/h meaning that you’ll be down the bottom before you can even cry “Mon Dieu!”.
The zipline can be tackled either in a normal seated position or in a head first “flying” position (although you can’t wear ski boots if facing head first).
How to get to Peisey-Vallandry
There are various ways to access the Peisey-Vallandry ski domain.
Peisey-Vallandry by Plane
Chambery Airport is the nearest, just 1 hour 30 minutes away by car or transfer followed by Grenoble Airport. Geneva is approximately 2 hours 15 minutes away and Lyon Airport is 2 hours 30 minutes.
Peisey-Vallandry by Train
An easy and green way to get to Peisey-Vallandry is by train. Travel to Bourg St Maurice and then catch a transfer to Peisey.
The only complicating factor are the seemingly ever-changing ski train options from London. Take a look at Snow Carbon for more details.
Peisey-Vallandry by Car
From Calais it can take anywhere from 7 hours to 10 hours to drive to Peisey-Vallandry depending on traffic and the weather. Make sure to pack snow chains if you don’t have snow tires.
